One of the better trailer sailers.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/265489713140?hash=item3dd06b87f4:g:57wAAOSwEV5h2NDm
Free S&S 30. Only one slight problem.
www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/saratoga/sail-boats/-salvage-required-free-yacht-s-s-30/1288324595
Free S&S 30. Only one slight problem.
www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/saratoga/sail-boats/-salvage-required-free-yacht-s-s-30/1288324595
Fortunately it's not close by!
This quarter tonner has just had a price drop.
www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/1287960341?campaign=DM356975&utm_content=&utm_source=trigger&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=watchlist_pricedrop
A fun looking little sea boat/motor sailer.
www.yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/finn-8-excellent-condition-with-new-standing-rigging/271462
Used Finn 8 Excellent Condition With New Standing Rigging for Sale | Yachts For Sale | Yachthub
For some reason, can't get it to come up as a link
This appeared on Facebook this morning.
www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/sailing-boats/sparkman-stephens-30-defiance/269249
That wheel would have to go. Really good value no matter what the insides like!
This appeared on Facebook this morning.
www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/sailing-boats/sparkman-stephens-30-defiance/269249
That wheel would have to go. Really good value no matter what the insides like!
Good value. Except the $6k annual berthing fees and the lack of any available moorings in the region.
This appeared on Facebook this morning.
www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/sailing-boats/sparkman-stephens-30-defiance/269249
That wheel would have to go. Really good value no matter what the insides like!
reckon price is about to increase. Vendor seems to be buying new sails. Guess he either got divorced or is trying to prepare boat for sale at a higher price. :-)
Hi there,
new to the forum. I raced on 30, 36, 40 and 52ft boats and have recently contemplated the idea of getting a cheap boat, doing some fixes and sailing around the NSW Coast.
I found 2 triton 24 on gumtree (sorry, I cannot post the link as I am new here)
https[:]//www[.]gumtree[.]com[.]au/s-ad/hawkesbury-area/sail-boats/triton-24-foot-yacht/1286117098
Was wondering:
1 - Given the conditions of the interior, should I sort of assume some surprises around the deck and hull?
2 - I also noticed the current owner unstepped the mast. While some interior refitting is a doable endeavour (I guess), DIY rigging seems like a recipe for disaster. Am I too off the mark on this? If so, what order of magnitude would the rig cost (assuming most things cannot be saved)?
Cheers
This appeared on Facebook this morning.
www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/sailing-boats/sparkman-stephens-30-defiance/269249
That wheel would have to go. Really good value no matter what the insides like!
reckon price is about to increase. Vendor seems to be buying new sails. Guess he either got divorced or is trying to prepare boat for sale at a higher price. :-)
Pretty sure this is the boat currently on the hard. Had a close look. Looks like a lot of work. Starboard side looks like it took some big impacts against something (like a wall).
boat looks in worse condition up close.
This appeared on Facebook this morning.
www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/sailing-boats/sparkman-stephens-30-defiance/269249
That wheel would have to go. Really good value no matter what the insides like!
This one has been for sale in Mooloolaba for ages. Has a tiller - does this justify its price difference :)
Looks like a nice one based on a casual glance on my regular walk past - not sure why someone hasn't picked it up. Perhaps people insist on a furler. Can buy the berth with it if needed.
yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/savage-30-defiance-make-an-offer-can-include-10m-berth/263964
Hi there,
new to the forum. I raced on 30, 36, 40 and 52ft boats and have recently contemplated the idea of getting a cheap boat, doing some fixes and sailing around the NSW Coast.
I found 2 triton 24 on gumtree (sorry, I cannot post the link as I am new here)
https[:]//www[.]gumtree[.]com[.]au/s-ad/hawkesbury-area/sail-boats/triton-24-foot-yacht/1286117098
Was wondering:
1 - Given the conditions of the interior, should I sort of assume some surprises around the deck and hull?
2 - I also noticed the current owner unstepped the mast. While some interior refitting is a doable endeavour (I guess), DIY rigging seems like a recipe for disaster. Am I too off the mark on this? If so, what order of magnitude would the rig cost (assuming most things cannot be saved)?
Cheers
See the link here;
www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hawkesbury-area/sail-boats/triton-24-foot-yacht/1286117098
To answer your 2 questions; of course as with all these type of posts it is not possible for anyone to give specific and explicit answers based on the photos and the advert text, so the below comments are given in good faith so you have some responses..........
1 Would certainly expect surprises anywhere around the deck and hull including keel to hull joint and keel bolts etc, skin fittings, all chainplates, internal bulkheads, internal hull structure including keel floors, mast support structure, many other areas.
2 Yes would have a professional rigger give you all new standing rigging including turnbuckles. For supply only of like for like probably looking at around $1,500. Then there is crane re-stepping the mast and tensioning up the standing rigging which the rigger is best to do - so another $750-$1,000 probably.
Other comments;
a What is your budget and time allowed for "doing up" a run-down yacht? No good buying a "cheap boat" if it doesn't have good bones and is basically structurally sound - the cost and effort to rectify it will blow way right out. If you are planning to do a clean up and paint touch up only, the boat is in a condition which this is all that is needed, that's another story. What does "some fixes" mean in your plan?
b As regards the advert text, the mast is said to be "perfect" - what does this mean? A mast that old - assuming it is the original blank - will have numerous areas needing rectification probably including spreader and gooseneck re-securing and Tefgel barrier coat between the stainless bands and the mast, other.
c It is not clear if the trailer and cradle are included in the sale?
d Is the boom and kite pole included?
e Probably all running rigging needs to be renewed.
f Electrics probably need to be renewed completely.
g Is there an outboard with it? In photo 8 is that the outboard well? No diesel or shaft/prop/p bracket are apparent.
h Pulpit looks like it has come off second best with a wharf or immoveable object - any foredeck damage?
i In photo 10 is what looks like badly corroded chainplate bolts - probably were 304 stainless originally not 316. Renew with 316 Grade 8.8 stainless bolts and grade 8 nuts hardened washers by Bumax. New chainplates also. Can't see the backstay chainplate.
j Interior looks like it needs a water blast then inspection and a work plan devised. Cushions etc are beyond hope but there are cheap ways to replace these.
k The step on the transom possibly indicated on one photo is not in others.
l Rudder - is it the same design as the original? Looks like there could be too much area ahead of the stock which will create bad helm feel, won't be able to be held on track easily.
m Insurance - if you want comprehensive you will need a professional survey done with no major defects included in it.
n Other.
See prior T24 posts here;
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/a-newbie-with-a-triton-24?page=1
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/triton-24-3?page=1
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/Triton-24-live-aboard-and-V-birth-?page=1
Tophats with inboard diesels have recently gone for <$10k - albeit probably needing new standing rigging, some new running rigging, diesel service and elec work. Would suggest such a boat and price would be better.
Member Yara on here should be able to give more specific advice - he has posted in the above links.
r13.Thanks for the detailed answer. I must confess I missed many of the details you picked. But replying to your question:
a) my budget would be around 5k to fix it to a "safe level". Doesn't need to look great (yet). Just to be safe to get outside Syd Harbour (nothing crazy, just going up to Refuge Bay and Down to Jervis Bay). I guess I would be happy to pain the exterior as that look is not the best but would also consider a wrap of sorts (as opposed to a new gel coat).
b) yes. I saw that as well. My assumption is "the mast is gone". If re-usable great, otherwise, contingency.
c) my assumption they are not but good question.
d) would include the boom as part of the mast... but again, as in b. Assuming the worse.
e) my guess as well
f) agree and that sort of worries me. As far as I understand one cannot partake self-repair of electrical on boats anymore?
g) My understanding, no outboard. Just a possibility. I noticed the hole in the hull as well. My guess was that shaft was removed but your suggestion that that may be an outboard well makes sense.
h). Yes. I noticed that as well. Truly odd looking part of hull.
i) noticed that. Good point about chain plates.
j) cushions are easy to fix indeed. Timber work... well.... not so sure. :-)
k) noticed that as well. Same thing as mast before suggest a complete rig but other pictures not so much. Same thing with winches, cleats, etc. Assuming some refitting may be needed.
l) 100% a big worry. I never seen the rudder of a triton before and the idea of a home made rudder sort of worries me.
m) insurance will be a challenge...
Thank you again for the reply. It was very helpful!
Ok no problem.
As regards self repair of electrical, or new installations, my understanding is that 12v DC systems as would be typical in this size yacht can be done by a careful handyperson. There are many guides on line eg;
newwiremarine.com/how-to/wiring-a-boat/
This is a good text on mechanical and electrical - 2963 pages - you might get this or earlier editions on line as free pdf files
www.booktopia.com.au/boatowners-mechanical-and-electrical-manual-nigel-calder/book/9780071790338.html
This appeared on Facebook this morning.
www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/sailing-boats/sparkman-stephens-30-defiance/269249
That wheel would have to go. Really good value no matter what the insides like!
This one has been for sale in Mooloolaba for ages. Has a tiller - does this justify its price difference :)
Looks like a nice one based on a casual glance on my regular walk past - not sure why someone hasn't picked it up. Perhaps people insist on a furler. Can buy the berth with it if needed.
yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/savage-30-defiance-make-an-offer-can-include-10m-berth/263964
With that engine I would say that is a very fair asking price. Not sure why the jammers are so far forward, might need some re arrangement of the control lines. It's been a club racer with a full crew.
Hi there,
new to the forum. I raced on 30, 36, 40 and 52ft boats and have recently contemplated the idea of getting a cheap boat, doing some fixes and sailing around the NSW Coast.
I found 2 triton 24 on gumtree (sorry, I cannot post the link as I am new here)
https[:]//www[.]gumtree[.]com[.]au/s-ad/hawkesbury-area/sail-boats/triton-24-foot-yacht/1286117098
Was wondering:
1 - Given the conditions of the interior, should I sort of assume some surprises around the deck and hull?
2 - I also noticed the current owner unstepped the mast. While some interior refitting is a doable endeavour (I guess), DIY rigging seems like a recipe for disaster. Am I too off the mark on this? If so, what order of magnitude would the rig cost (assuming most things cannot be saved)?
Cheers
The owner has just put two coats of Vivid antifoul paint on the hull so he must think it's worth it. The deck, topsides and even the interior will need a scrub down with Metal Gleam or phosphoric acid of choice. Just under $40. The mast can be lowered and raised easily single handed with a tripod. I would have the standing and running rigging replaced first. Not sure about the rudder blade. It will need an outboard for that well and that is going to be the largest expense. Secondhand two stroke 6hp probably but check out what other Tritons use. The electrical system will be very basic, just a solar panel and controller, battery for the lights, radio etc.
"The owner has just put two coats of Vivid antifoul paint on the hull so he must think it's worth it."
OR... he thought that is was a good idea to cover up....... a little surprise.
gary
"The owner has just put two coats of Vivid antifoul paint on the hull so he must think it's worth it."
OR... he thought that is was a good idea to cover up....... a little surprise.
gary
You cynic Garry......
"The owner has just put two coats of Vivid antifoul paint on the hull so he must think it's worth it."
OR... he thought that is was a good idea to cover up....... a little surprise.
gary
I'm sure he could have found a cheaper antifoul than Vivid if that was the plan.
Hi there,
new to the forum. I raced on 30, 36, 40 and 52ft boats and have recently contemplated the idea of getting a cheap boat, doing some fixes and sailing around the NSW Coast.
I found 2 triton 24 on gumtree (sorry, I cannot post the link as I am new here)
https[:]//www[.]gumtree[.]com[.]au/s-ad/hawkesbury-area/sail-boats/triton-24-foot-yacht/1286117098
Was wondering:
1 - Given the conditions of the interior, should I sort of assume some surprises around the deck and hull?
2 - I also noticed the current owner unstepped the mast. While some interior refitting is a doable endeavour (I guess), DIY rigging seems like a recipe for disaster. Am I too off the mark on this? If so, what order of magnitude would the rig cost (assuming most things cannot be saved)?
Cheers
See the link here;
www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hawkesbury-area/sail-boats/triton-24-foot-yacht/1286117098
To answer your 2 questions; of course as with all these type of posts it is not possible for anyone to give specific and explicit answers based on the photos and the advert text, so the below comments are given in good faith so you have some responses..........
1 Would certainly expect surprises anywhere around the deck and hull including keel to hull joint and keel bolts etc, skin fittings, all chainplates, internal bulkheads, internal hull structure including keel floors, mast support structure, many other areas.
2 Yes would have a professional rigger give you all new standing rigging including turnbuckles. For supply only of like for like probably looking at around $1,500. Then there is crane re-stepping the mast and tensioning up the standing rigging which the rigger is best to do - so another $750-$1,000 probably.
Other comments;
a What is your budget and time allowed for "doing up" a run-down yacht? No good buying a "cheap boat" if it doesn't have good bones and is basically structurally sound - the cost and effort to rectify it will blow way right out. If you are planning to do a clean up and paint touch up only, the boat is in a condition which this is all that is needed, that's another story. What does "some fixes" mean in your plan?
b As regards the advert text, the mast is said to be "perfect" - what does this mean? A mast that old - assuming it is the original blank - will have numerous areas needing rectification probably including spreader and gooseneck re-securing and Tefgel barrier coat between the stainless bands and the mast, other.
c It is not clear if the trailer and cradle are included in the sale?
d Is the boom and kite pole included?
e Probably all running rigging needs to be renewed.
f Electrics probably need to be renewed completely.
g Is there an outboard with it? In photo 8 is that the outboard well? No diesel or shaft/prop/p bracket are apparent.
h Pulpit looks like it has come off second best with a wharf or immoveable object - any foredeck damage?
i In photo 10 is what looks like badly corroded chainplate bolts - probably were 304 stainless originally not 316. Renew with 316 Grade 8.8 stainless bolts and grade 8 nuts hardened washers by Bumax. New chainplates also. Can't see the backstay chainplate.
j Interior looks like it needs a water blast then inspection and a work plan devised. Cushions etc are beyond hope but there are cheap ways to replace these.
k The step on the transom possibly indicated on one photo is not in others.
l Rudder - is it the same design as the original? Looks like there could be too much area ahead of the stock which will create bad helm feel, won't be able to be held on track easily.
m Insurance - if you want comprehensive you will need a professional survey done with no major defects included in it.
n Other.
See prior T24 posts here;
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/a-newbie-with-a-triton-24?page=1
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/triton-24-3?page=1
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/Triton-24-live-aboard-and-V-birth-?page=1
Tophats with inboard diesels have recently gone for <$10k - albeit probably needing new standing rigging, some new running rigging, diesel service and elec work. Would suggest such a boat and price would be better.
Member Yara on here should be able to give more specific advice - he has posted in the above links.
Certainly the Top Hat is a better choice for coastal cruising.
Boat prices are inflated at the moment, but may come down as more people get to travel and spend their money on other things. Keep looking until you find a good one. A "fixer upper" is not a good solution if you actually want to go sailing.
I was reminded by one of my ex-wives recently how I bought a boat after a five minute inspection on the mooring. I could do that because I had spent a long time looking, and knew a lot about the class. It was clearly a well maintained boat. It is worth waiting until you find one that grabs you and says "This is the One". (Same for wives.)
Knew Yara would pitch in with sage advice but didn't expect the life advice also - that last paragraph is a classic.............
That rudder is too low aspect and shallow to be a "real" Triton 24 rudder, and as I understand it (from an article by metallurgist or engineer Dr Ian Ward years ago) stainless underwater foils are a real problem.
Personally I'd take a Triton 24 over a Top Hat for coastal cruising because of the increased interior room, and the fact that coastal cruising isn't going to be dangerous in either of them if they are well equipped and handled.
Oh, and Port Stephens is vastly better than Jervis for cruising; it's a better trip from Sydney, it's got better anchorages, the Broughton Islands are as good as the Whitsundays acre for acre, yada yada yada.
This appeared on Facebook this morning.
www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/sailing-boats/sparkman-stephens-30-defiance/269249
That wheel would have to go. Really good value no matter what the insides like!
This one has been for sale in Mooloolaba for ages. Has a tiller - does this justify its price difference :)
Crackerjack (the Defiance in Mooloolaba) won a JOG nationals years ago and the owner (a sailmaker) remarked that he hated wheels on boats like that. Having driven a few halves, I'd agree although it is a personal preference.
I love furlers on fractional rigs but IMHO on those old big-genoa mastheaders they are problematic, because you need to be able to change down in headsail size while keeping an efficient luff and sail shape. You could be better off with just using the #3 most of the time, and even with a headfoil it's not a big issue on a half tonner.
This would probably be cheaper than the Triton once it's sailing; Pacific Westerly 27. Seems to be better buying than just about anything else in that bracket;
www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/bilgola/sail-boats/sailing-boat/1285777543
But wow, in general prices still seem sky high, and I'm glad I'm not in the market.
Knew Yara would pitch in with sage advice but didn't expect the life advice also - that last paragraph is a classic.............
The reason I prefer the TopHat is they either have a diesel, or outboard in a central well, from MK2 on. A high transom mount outboard can suffer from prop spinning in air in a steep seaway, like you can get at the entrance of Broken Bay. The Triton has an off-centre well which is similar to a transom mount, and these can spin in air when motor-sailing. I had that happen to me once, and lost propulsion when the prop hit hard water and sheared the shear pin. No power and no wind was embarrassing, but could end up dangerous.
Anyone have thoughts on this one? Pretty old but looks very neat & tidy.
www.boatsales.com.au/boats/details/1979-compass-yachts-28/SSE-AD-7469051/?Cr=9
Anyone have thoughts on this one? Pretty old but looks very neat & tidy.
www.boatsales.com.au/boats/details/1979-compass-yachts-28/SSE-AD-7469051/?Cr=9
Your right it does look very neat and tidy, better than my C28.
the pretty new engine making it decent value, I reckon.
This appeared on Facebook this morning.
www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/sailing-boats/sparkman-stephens-30-defiance/269249
That wheel would have to go. Really good value no matter what the insides like!
This one has been for sale in Mooloolaba for ages. Has a tiller - does this justify its price difference :)
Crackerjack (the Defiance in Mooloolaba) won a JOG nationals years ago and the owner (a sailmaker) remarked that he hated wheels on boats like that. Having driven a few halves, I'd agree although it is a personal preference.
I love furlers on fractional rigs but IMHO on those old big-genoa mastheaders they are problematic, because you need to be able to change down in headsail size while keeping an efficient luff and sail shape. You could be better off with just using the #3 most of the time, and even with a headfoil it's not a big issue on a half tonner.
For what is worth I only cruise Defiance with the No 3.
If it is light you are motor sailing and if there is breeze a good 3 is not much slower and lot easier to handle.
That said a poled out No1 is quick on a long downhill passage.