For just a bit, FREE from the stress, tension and all the rest of the crap that seems to continue without end.
Nice SJ! Dedication in water that cold! The last wave was a cracker!
The definition of mindfulness- a freezing cold solid beach break on a SUP with a crowd - need to be on your A game and have nothing else on your mind!
Nice! Talk about threading the needle. Great waves though! I can't imagine surfing in such cold water. Do you get an icre-cream headache when you go under?
Yea, and all those guys all wait inside for that section. I was alone at the peak and if I didn't make it I was gone for a while.
The first wave was obviously unmakeble, just wanted the drop. Then I saw a guy down on the inside and straightened out for the grand tour inside through to the channel and back out. As Oki says, priority 1 - stay out of the way Luckily on the average good day it goes about like this. And with all the ones waiting for me to go down, conservative surfing With due respect to the Creek, this was not a truly freezing, ice cream headache stuff that he does on the Cape. Needs water temps also cold below 40F4C in my experience. This is about as cold as we get here, air near freezing and the water just under 50.